CLEAR OUT THE SWIMMING POOL.
The primary step is to clear out any leaves, dirt, pests and debris. Utilize your swimming pool vacuum, or simply fish them out with a net. Clear out the skimmer and the pump basket, too.
Clean the tile line with tile cleaner. Easier now than next spring, when the scum has actually had all winter to set.
STABILIZE THE WATER CHEMISTRY.
This protects the swimming pool from corrosion or scale accumulation. Using a water test kit (or bring your water to us to test), change the water to the recommended levels of pH, overall calcium (firmness), alkalinity and chlorination.
If you want to include a winterization chemical kit, do it now. These kits put high levels of chlorine and algaecide in the water to prepare it for the winter months ahead. Your swimming pool retailer offers ready-made kits for the function; use according to the maker’s instructions. When it comes to bigger swimming pools, you might be directed to supplement the kit with extra quantities of some chemicals, too.
DON’T LET YOUR CHEMICALS DAMAGE YOUR SWIMMING POOL.
Don’t include tablets or a floater which contains chlorine or bromine– they can harm the devices nearest them. If you currently have chlorine or bromine tablets in your feeder, let them run out so that none continue to be. If you’re adding winterizing chemicals, pour them into a bucket then into the swimming pool. A few of these chemicals advise you to switch on the swimming pool filter while you add the chemicals. Make certain you do, especially if you have a pool with a vinyl liner — you do not want to get spots on your liner from un-dissolved granules or damage to your equipment from concentrations of chemicals in the water.
THE # 1 ENEMY: FREEZING.
When water freezes, it broadens with enormous force. It’s the force that breaks up highways, divides garden hoses, takes off beverage cans in your freezer, and it’s the force that broadens and cracks swimming pool pipes, filters, pumps and skimmer baskets. If you are closing up your pool for the winter, you should constantly take safety measures to protect from freeze damage no matter where you live– even pool owners in the South have learned, to their remorse, that freezing temperature levels are an ever-present threat.
To start the procedure, drain the pool down listed below the skimmer mouth. DO NOT EMPTY THE POOL! The expansion of the soil under the swimming pool as the water in the soil freezes can jack the swimming pool right out of the ground; it needs the weight of some water to keep it securely in location.
BE GOOD TO YOUR PUMP AND HEATER.
Detach your pump and filter. Make sure all water is entirely drained from the pump. For insurance coverage, turn it upside down once and dump any excess water out. Get rid of the drain plugs from it (there may be one or two); they would trap water inside, which is bad. When you’ve drained the pump, turn it on for simply a 2nd or more (the seal is susceptible to damage) to expel any continuing possible water from the impeller. Store any little plugs or parts in the pump basket, so they’re simple to discover next year.
If you have a heating unit, drain it and ensure there is no standing water inside. Blow it out with a compressor or store vac. Drain the heating system totally, eliminate any drain plugs, and stash those plugs too in the pump basket for next season.
Eliminate all return jet fittings (the whole fitting!). If you break a fitting while removing it, do not stress! You can get a replacement come spring. Eliminate all skimmer baskets. Put fittings and other products that you eliminate in one of the skimmer baskets or the pump basket to avoid loss (this consists of the dive board bolts too).
NO WATER IN THE PIPELINE = NO FREEZE DAMAGE.
Unscrew and loosen any quick-disconnect fittings or unions at your pump and filter system, then blow out the pipes. A wet-dry shop vacuum or air compressor is ideal for this. Force the air from your pump down the skimmer and through the skimmer (or “suction side”) pipes.
Burn out the return plumbing by linking your compressor to the return lines at the filter system, or by screwing it into the pump’s drain plug. Keep at it till you see air bubbles emerge from the return jets, then firmly plug the fitting listed below the water line. Close up all exposed pipes with plugs.
Likewise blow out the primary drain line (if any). No diving required to plug up the drain pipeline– when you see bubbles coming out of the drain, plug the pipe on your end or close the gate valve. This will produce an “air lock” in the line, guaranteeing that no more water can enter it from the swimming pool side, which protects the primary drain line.
CLEAN THE FILTER.
Get rid of the filter hoses. Spray the cartridge filter components and D.E. (diatomaceous earth) grids with Filter Cleaner, then wash them clean with a garden hose. For D.E. filters, drain the filter tanks and leave the backwash valve open. If you have a sand filter, clean it by backwashing.
Important: Do not acid clean a D.E. filter at pool closing time. Wait until spring, when you can easily run swimming pool water through the system to wash it out. Merely rinsing off the acid and putting away the filter will provide the acid all winter season to assault the filter components.
Open the drain at the bottom of the filter to let out any water in the filter outlet; make certain to open the air relief valve on the top if you have one. Put the multiport valve in the closed or “winter” position– blow the water out of it if required– and get rid of the pressure gauge. Stow the drain plug with the other removed products you’re stashed in the pump basket.
YOUR FINAL FREEZE INSURANCE COVERAGE: THE FLOTATION DEVICE.
Before you place on the cover, you’ll want to install a flotation device in the center of the swimming pool. This gadget needn’t be anything expensive– it can be a “pillow” sold at your regional swimming pool retailer or a truck innertube. The float balances the rainwater and ice sure to form on your pool’s cover over the winter. Much more vital, it reduces pressure on the swimming pool walls by permitting winter season’s ice to push in on the flotation device, not external on the walls.
LAST STEP: THE WINTER SEASON COVER.
The winter cover is essential for both the pool and individuals around it. It’s more powerful than a summer season cover, both to hold up against the weight of snow and ice, and to secure people or family pets from inadvertently falling through the cover into the water.
If your cover has any rips, fix them. If they’re beyond repair, replace the cover. Stretch the cover over the pool, black side down. If any sharp points are protruding from below, cushion them with cardboard or rags. Then stretch the cover extremely tightly throughout the pool (this can be a 2-3 person task). Run a strong wire through the holes around the perimeter of the cover, and snug it up utilizing a wrench so the cover stays down in winter season’s winds and rains.
TIME FOR STORAGE.
Eliminate rope and drifts from pool and put with the remainder of the products. Store any dive board and ladders in the shed or garage, with your pump and filter. Store your dive bolts or ladder bumpers in the pump basket. If you have a sand filter, simply leave it outside.
YOU ‘RE DONE.
Your pool is ready for winter’s worst. Your investment is secured. Your spring swimming pool opening need to be an easy action to another season of swimming enjoyment!
Elko Spas Billiards & Pools
4718 Northgate Blvd
Myrtle Beach, SC 29588